EAT WELL IN PARIS #71 — Restaurants, grocery stores, wine shops, pastries, cocktail bars… Our food critic and our bar critic distribute the “T”. This week on the test bench: La Riposte, Inizio, Les Petites Bulles and Brewdog Le Marais.
The response r
The beautiful team of La Parade (11th) had the good idea to settle close to the Place de Clichy, in a quiet street. Its small terrace, in the shade at lunchtime and always pleasant for an aperitif, extends to 21 bis, rue de Bruxelles, which allows you to discover that this is where Zola wrote the famous ” I accuse “. That’s for intellectual foods. But make way for the terrestrial ones, which I formally accuse of being delicious! In the kitchen, the Sardinian Mattia sends out splendid pizzas al taglio, seasoned with kindness thanks to Rubby’s welcome. On a base of tomato (with tender aubergine and sensual ricotta) or cream of pecorino (with zucchini and fior di latte), their fine paste, due to the technique of biga (prefermented dough), has very crispy edges. In the evening, we discover the coccoli, fried pizza dough balls, to serve withArancini ultra-crispy and speck or coppa. Is the terrace complete? Anything goes, so head to Square Berlioz, less than 100 meters away! — EP
19, rue de Bruxelles, 9th. 06 19 73 72 25. 12pm-3pm Mon. to Fri., 6pm-11pm Tue to Sat. Lunch menus €11.90-15.90, dinner €25 approx. Veg option
Little Breton weekend on the horizon… but the weather decides otherwise: flooded roads, no train, everything falls into the water! Stomach in heels, I try to sustain myself with mine and find refuge not in a creperie, but in this cosmopolitan pizzeria run by a Canadian and a French chef. In the dining room, with a smile, Bob finds a place for our suitcases and works to transform the catamaran day into a good time. Pasta, antipasti or pizza, there is something to please the whole family! The pasta all’amatriciana with tomato, guanciale and at pecorino is in the nails, al dente and tasty. The sourdough pizza of the moment, topped with roasted asparagus, ham with herbs, mozzarella and shavings of raw green asparagus, nicely seasoned with a zest of lemon, will suit lovers of thick sidewalks and generous toppings. The Panna cotta with buttermilk, strawberries and Sicilian pistachios, slightly acidulous and lighter than that with cream, brings together Brittany and Italy in a happy combination. An all-terrain neighborhood transalpine that does more than save the day! — EP
41, rue du Montparnasse, 14th. 09 81 94 66 05. Tue. to Sun. noon-2.30 p.m. and 7 p.m.-10 p.m. Pasta €15-16, pizza €12.50-17. Vegetarian option. Res. advised.
The little bubbles q
Simmering inflation obliges, it is less and less easy to have lunch at a restaurant table for less than 15 €. Magnanimous but pragmatic, my editor-in-chief grants me 1 euro more so that I can continue to unearth good deals at contained prices, which allows me to sit down in this cheerful bistro in the Marcadet district. If in the evening we let the natural wine flow there, at noon the atmosphere is more sober, but we are always keen to cook everything at home. The proof with these very simple mayo eggs, with a herbaceous sauce and covered with fried shallots, and this refreshing zucchini soup with mint. After a little wait (the restaurant is listed in the corner), an Espelette pepper sausage is served to me with mashed potatoes — not potatoes but chickpeas — a bit bland and good spinach sautéed. Nice dessert to finish, with a few pieces of lemon and olive oil cake on a lemon cream that awakens the palate. A charming address, which only lacks a vegetarian option to satisfy all tastes. — EP
15, rue Simart, 18th. 01 42 59 58 80. Mon. to Fri. noon-2 p.m. Lunch menus €16-19. Res. advised.
Brewdog Le Marais r
Are you looking for an honest refreshment bar in the Marais where you can find good, trendy artisanal beers? Unfortunately, it’s a real desert, except here, in this oasis founded by the Scottish brand Brewdog, which we won’t really call a craft, the latter has grown so much in recent years… In Paris, as everywhere in the world, she has her bar, where her star and rock’n’roll binous are obviously served (Punk IPA, Hazy Jane, Dead Pony Club…). But on the twenty-two mouthpieces we also find limited series from the house (Milkshake IPA, Tony’s Hopolonely…) and guest breweries that we like (Outland, Fauve, Nautile…), based on pilsner, sour, session. Drinks with real flavors. Every Friday a new beer appears on the menu and, every day, you can also eat on site (pizzas, salads, etc.). Inside, the setting is Anglo-Saxon, with Chesterfield benches and scraped walls. Outside, on the other hand, the small terrace spreads out over a very Parisian square, fresh and pleasant. All that remains is to follow the maxim engraved on the glasses: “Live fast, drink slowly”! —L.J.
1, pl. de Thorigny, 3rd. Sun-Thu noon-midnight, Fri. and Sat. noon-1am. Pints from €6.75, pizzas €12-13.