Can we do culinary archeology about pizza? Can we speak seriously (with historical data, nutritional values, traceability of ingredients…), of a specialty like pizza? Today, the form having eclipsed the substance, it is rather difficult. Pizza has become one of the most “instagrammable” products. She delights in showing her generous curves. We are witnessing swelling competitions with silicone pasta surrounding the filling… Neapolitan pizza has become a caricature of itself. From now on, also complicit with a certain lax press, the winners of the “best” specimens are decreed by means of a bogus vote by so-called experts by e-mail.
By opening his small restaurant in Belleville, Giuseppe simply decided to make his own pizza. No fiordilatte of Agerolanor of buffalo mozzarellano Piennolo nor of San Marzano… but broccoli. Yes, with two “c” because we are in Italy. Can we top the pizza with broccoli? Sure. In reality, no offense to purists, you can make pizza with anything because pizza is nothing but the Neapolitan derivative of medieval pies, so pasta stuffed or garnished with all kinds of ingredients . On the pizza from Giuseppe you will find broccoli, of course, especially in season, friarielli (same family), artichokes, and many other products. The menu offers many vegetarian and vegan versions.
We tasted the marinara (tomato sauce, garlic, basil €7.50) with the addition of friarielli (+ €2) as well as the “ friarielli ei suoi fratelli » (€15) with friarielli, fior di latte, ricotta, pancetta, pecorino. Yes, Giuseppe takes pleasure in playing with words to name his pizzas: “ artichokes must go on », « doctor truffle and mister tomato », « Vivaldi was a rolling stone », « it will be a volta in Calabria »…
Giuseppe’s pizza, which one may find unphotogenic, is very good. The dough is thin and crispy. Roman pizza, then, some will claim? Let’s get out of this binary system. Giuseppe’s pizza is… Giuseppe’s pizza. How he likes it. That’s the secret of his success. Romaine or not, its leavened dough is good and digestible. Giuseppe applies the short circuit. All its ingredients are organic, French and seasonal. When the pizza arrives, you will notice that unlike many of its colleagues, the dough is not burnt. Which is not negligible for our body.
A glass of pecorino (€5), a very pleasant wine from Abruzzo, will prove to be an excellent companion for your meal.
Published on Wednesday, June 8, 2022 at 09:17