Lyons 7th. Dolce vita, pasta and cocktails at Mimo

In the 7e borough, an institution closed its doors last summer: the Indo Café. This neighborhood restaurant with a charismatic owner served Asian family cuisine and armfuls of mojitos throughout the evening to large tables on its terrace or in the two interior rooms with a well-thought-out, slightly arty decor. When they learned the place was for sale, as former customers for years — even before it was called the Indo Café — and neighbors, Anthony and Charlotte jumped at the chance.

Already owner of Café Kot, cours Charlemagne (Lyon 2e), since 2017, the young man wanted to keep the DNA of this place he loved so much: a place to live with a warm atmosphere, not necessarily as festive as before, but where you like to come and eat an invigorating dish. or have a drink on the terrace. A place that has a soul, what. So he went to find a young Milanese chef, Nabil, who is assisted by Armand, a young man from Lyon who passed through Top Chef objective. And together, they have fun with local Italian dishes, whether from the north or south of La Botte.

From North to south

One of the special features of the menu is that the starters and main courses have been designed to be served in small portions (piccolini) or on a more generous plate (big). “We have noticed that in classic portions, people are more cautious and take dishes they know, whereas in small portions, they allow themselves to try new things”, explains Anthony. And he’s right, that’s exactly what we faced on the card. Starting with the stuffed gnocchi and their parmesan sauce and broken truffles. Pretty little soft cushions with a slightly crispy envelope. Then these are the crescentine which intrigued us. It is a base of focaccia which, once fried, swells with air, and the
chef also fills with a parmesan sauce, and soon at the stracciatella.

As a main course, these are the bucatini at the carbonara who caught our eye. And we are not kidding with this recipe in the kitchens of Mimo: no cream, no pancetta or parmesan. Carbonara is made with egg, guanciale and pecorino. To conclude, the tiramisu, excellent, rubs shoulders with a strudel on the menu, because yes, this Austrian specialty has crossed the borders to the north of the country. After all that, we would have enjoyed a cocktail on the terrace (D-15, we hope.).

Mimo14 rue de la Thibaudière, Lyon 7e. 04 78 58 33 30. Monday to Saturday noon. From Thursday to Saturday evening. Our opinion : 3.5/4. The rates. Dishes: from 12 to 16 €. Entrances: from 6 to 15 €. Dessert: €7. Full package: €21.

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