Passing through Naples, the temptation to push the doors of one of the city’s countless pizzerias is omnipresent. No question of resisting it, so we opt for one of these four tested and approved establishments.
We show up without booking. If there is space, we enter immediately. Otherwise, you give your first name at the entrance, and you wait on the sidewalk to be called. We are served quickly and cheaply. You can eat with your fingers and talk loudly. For Neapolitans, pizzerias are not quite restaurants like the others. But rather popular and open places, where everyone can find a dish accessible to all, comforting, friendly.
All of them prepare the Neapolitan-style pizza, of course. The dough must rise for at least eight hours, then be rolled out by hand and baked with its filling for 60 to 90 seconds in a wood-fired oven. The difference from one address to another lies in a mysterious alchemy between the choice of ingredients and the atmosphere. Difficult, therefore, to establish a ranking of the best pizzerias in Naples! However, here are four addresses that, in our opinion, prepare excellent Neapolitan pizza.
In the popular district of Pignasecca, attached to the quarteri spagnoli, this pizzeria is not flashy. Attilio Bachetti, the boss, stands at the entrance, behind a glass counter, busy rolling out the dough by hand. He’s not a show-off, despite all the awards he’s received for his work, which adorn the walls of the cream-colored room. Particularity of the house, here, it is a point of honor to use only products of excellent quality. Without being afraid to experiment with new combinations of tastes, like on the pizza with artichoke cream and olives from Gaeta. Nor to change from the classic form, by offering a star-shaped pizza, where each branch is stuffed with ricotta.
Da Attilio. Via Pignasecca, 17. Tel. : +39 081 552 0479. Mon-Sat 12pm-3pm and 7pm-11.30pm. €7-9 per pizza.
Starita a Materdei
On the sprawling heights of the Materdei district, which stretches out on the hill behind the archaeological museum, you get lost in the alleys before reaching the Starita pizzeria. On weekends, on the sidewalk, a compact crowd awaits its turn. It discusses in Neapolitan, while waiting for his name to be called on the microphone. Do not worry, in the worst case, the wait does not exceed half an hour. In 1954, the local even welcomed Sofia Loren, in the role of a beautiful pizza maker. But it is above all its quality that continues to make it successful, with a loyal clientele. We love the hyper-gourmet combinations on the menu: pistachios and sausages, porcini mushrooms and walnuts, zucchini flower and provola…
Starita. Via Materdei, 27/28. Such. : +39 081 557 3682. Mon-Sat 12pm-midnight. €7-8 for a pizza (specials at €10).
Concettina ai tre Santi
This pizzeria in the Sanità district is still dedicated to the great-grandmother, but it is now Ciro Oliva, fourth generation, who operates in the kitchen. The decor is modern and colorful, inspired by local markets. We open the menu and we find the spelling used on the stalls to indicate the price and origin of the products. When it comes to pizzas, creativity and humor are in order. When you opt for a San Gennaro, embellished with taralli napoletani, the server asks “with or without a miracle?” “. “With” a miracle, the pizza is served topped with tomato sauce, “without”, in its 100% cheese version. Since for Italians, pizza and beer are inseparable, we serve here a nice selection of artisanal beverages, blond or amber. Still hungry for dessert? Here we also serve the Delizia al Limonea sweetness from the Amalfi Coast covered with lemon cream.
Concettina ai tre Santi. Via Arena della Sanita, 7 bis. Such. : +39 081 290037. Open every day from noon to midnight, closed on Sunday evening. €10 per pizza.
Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo
In the heart of old Naples with its black cobblestones, in this artery of the historic center erected on the old decumanus Romain, we are looking for the most extravagant pizza, in its street food version but above all, fried. You have to see it to believe it: immersed in a bath of oil, the pizza dough slipper inflates with air, allowing the ingredients inside to steam. A feat of simplicity thanks to which this nutritious dish does not remain on our stomachs. To taste it, we choose the counter of the Sorbillo family, known thanks to the worldwide success of Gino, who has opened several addresses in Italy and the United States.
Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo. Via dei Tribunali, 35 (no tel.). Mon-Sat, 12pm-3pm and 7pm-11.30pm. Pizza fritta at €2.